How to: Motorcycle Oil Change

Want to save some money and learn about your beloved machine at the same time? Try changing your own oil. It's cheap, fun, and doesn't require many tools!



Things You'll Need

  1. Oil Filter
  2. Oil
  3. Drain Plug Washer
  4. Open end wrench (or socket and ratchet)
  5. Drain pan
  6. Tool to remove the filter (an old leather belt will do)
  7. Rags for cleanup
  8. Funnel
  9. Aluminum foil
  10. Torque wrench (recommended)
  11. Owner's or service manual

STEP 1: Set up your spot. This is one of the most important steps. You don't want to be running around looking for tools, containers and rags while oil is flowing out of your bike and your hands are too slick to turn a doorknob! 
STEP 2: Put your bike on the side stand, center-stand or rear-stand if you have one. Put your drain pan approximately under the bolt. Try to think ahead of where the oil's going to shoot out, and watch it as it drains. You'll most likely have to adjust the placement of the drain pan as the old oil slows down. Use the proper tool to remove the bolt. You don't want to strip it! If it drops in the pan, just pick it up quickly and don't burn yourself if it's hot! 

STEP 3: Allow the used/dirty oil to finish draining while you take off the filter. Carefully unscrew the filter with a filter wrench or, in a pinch, wrap a leather (or rubber) belt around it like a dog choker to get it off. Be careful not to dent or damage the filter, as that could inadvertently allow some of the contaminants in the filter to go back into the engine. There may be some oil left in there that may splash out, so make sure you've got something under there to catch it. If it is on there really tight, you can punch a screwdriver through its side with a hammer and use that to get it loose.

STEP 4: Install a fresh drain plug crush washer. It may cost as much as a dollar, but is cheap insurance. Be sure to remove the old crush washer. The New Washer will help save the threads in your oil pan as it will take less torque to wrench down on the oil drain plug.If the drain plug washer is a copper washer it must be annealed to make it soft by heating to cherry red and cooling in water. All copper washers must be annealed before reinstalling or it will not compress. This includes new ones as copper hardens with age.

STEP 5: Put the drain bolt back in. Make sure it's clean of dirt and grime before putting it back. Remember that it's usually going into cast aluminum, so don't over-tighten it! Consult your manual or your local shop for torque specs for your bike. Remember when using a torque wrench that Nm is not equal to Ft-Lbs. If you don't torque in the bolt to spec, just install it snug but do not over-tighten it!

STEP 6: Prep the filter by filling it about a quarter full of fresh oil. "Swish" it around slowly to try and get all the filter material down in there wet with oil. Then, and this is very important, prep the rubber seal with a dab of oil on your finger. Just get the whole seal "wet". This will ensure that it makes good contact with the engine, and make it much easier to get it off during the next oil change.

STEP 7: Clear the filter area on the engine of grime and wipe a finger of fresh oil around the area just to get good clean contact. Carefully screw on the new filter. Don't force it! It should go quite easily. Once it takes more than about zero effort to turn it, it only needs about 3/4 of a turn left. You really don't want to over-tighten an oil filter. And you shouldn't need more than a clean hand to tighten it. Don't use a tool, unless it is attached to a torque wrench and you are tightening it to factory specs!

STEP 8: If you haven't already, move the dirty oil away from the area so you don't spill it! Look in your manual for oil capacity and use the funnel to add about half a quart under full capacity into the fill hole. Stop and check the level. Add or drain oil as necessary to be at about the bottom third between Add and Full. You don't want to overfill the oil! It adds undue pressure on the seals in your engine and can lessen its life. Remember that on motorcycles you have to have it straight up and down, not on the side stand, to check the level.

STEP 9: Clean it up, double check you've returned all the caps and bolts, and you're good to go! Most auto places that sell you the oil will take it back if you pour it back into the original containers. It's a messy job, but don't pour it on the ground. It doesn't go away, it's really bad for the environment, and quite likely it is illegal.

Lastly, make double sure to check the level again as well as the filter, drain bolt, and fill cap tightness after your first ride!




Summer Riding Tips

Classic Motorcycle

There are 3 key principles when it comes to summer riding: hydration, sun burn prevention and evaporative cooling.
  1. Hydration: Keep well hydrated. Always carry a water bottle full of cold water, and stop at least once an hour for a cold drink.
  2. Sun burn prevention: Apply sunscreen to prevent sunburn. Unless you are looking to sport a "biker" tan, protect all exposed skin, especially on the backs of hands, wrists and the back of your neck.
  3. Evaporative cooling: Wear motorcycle gear specially designed to be protective, but well ventilated -- and combine that with light layers underneath.
Here are a few quick tips for summer motorcycle riding:
  • Watch very carefully for signs of Heat Exhaustion and Heat Stroke.
  • Bring more water than you think you’ll need.
  • Include stops on your route where you can cool off
  • Dress properly and keep your skin covered.
  • Wear a cooling vest.
  • Wear a reversed baseball cap with the bill as a neck shade.
  • Ride with the sleeve zips open and funnel the wind up your arms.?
  • Cover your seat with a white towel when you are not on your bike.
  • Cover black gasoline tanks with a towel as well.
  • Prevent blisters by taking off your wristwatch.
  • Park in the shade or in a covered parking structure.
  • Try to stay off of oily patches on the road. They can be as slick and hot as a pancake griddle on hot pavement.
  • Carry some oil just in case the bike overheats.
Ride early and late in the day ... stay inside if you can, in the midday sun.

Happy & Safe Summer Riding!

Get Your Daily Exercise from a Motorcycle Seat

Anyone that's ridden a bike knows that it takes a lot of effort when compared to the sedentary pace of riding in a car. Controlling a motorcycle requires the frequent use of almost every muscle in your body. Even the lighter bikes weigh several hundred pounds, and your body will get a total workout as you maintain the bikes balance, steer safely, and avoid obstacles. If you ride on a regular basis, you may find that it improves your muscle tone more than those infrequent trips to the gym.

In addition to better toned muscles, exercise can benefit your body chemistry. Some diabetics report that they are able to reduce their insulin usage on days that they ride . The gentle but steady exercise that is experienced during a long ride tends to stimulate their system and can provide the same benefits as other forms of exercise. Of course, if you're a diabetic, it's best to be safe and pack a few snacks, as well as your medication, to make sure that your blood sugar levels remain stable.

Happy Riding!

Getting Your Bike Ready for Summer

At the beginning of riding season, doing some routine motorcycle maintenance can help you ride happier, longer, and safer.



Here are some tips to get your bike ready for the summer

  • Inspect the tires. Look for any punctures, slow flats, or other problems Inflate tires to the proper PSI, as they may have lost air over the winter.
  • Make sure your bike is charged. Batteries can often run out of power if they're left unused during the cold season. If you need to replace the battery, check your owner's manual to ensure you've selected the right type for your bike model.
  • Fill up with fresh gas. Old gas can cause big problems. Stored gas can break down and corrode or clog systems, and can make it a lot harder (or impossible) to start an engine. Drain the tank or use fuel stabilizer over the winter, and, if you can't start your bike in the spring, try adding some new gas.
  • Check fluids. Check all of your bike’s fluids—not just the gas. Brake fluid is a priority because, again, long-term storage can affect fluid levels. Changing the engine oil and filter at the beginning of the season is also a good idea.
  • Inspect your mirrors, lights, and windshield. Be sure to check all of the parts that help you see what's around you when you're driving. Inspect mirrors and windshield areas for cracks or other damage, and ensure your lights are in working order.
These essential safety checks can protect you, and others, when you venture out to enjoy the new cycling season.

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State by State Motorcycle Laws

Planning on taking a motorcycle trip sometime in the near future? 
Don't forget to check up on the laws in every state you'll be visiting. 



Motorcycle Pre-Ride Checklist

1. Check tires. They are the most important parts of your bike. If your engine quits, you roll to a stop. If a tire quits - trouble! Make the effort to check the surface of the tires, looking for cuts in the rubber or foreign objects - like a nail. Check the tire pressure with a good gauge. If a tire is low every time you check it, even though you have added the proper amount of air each time, you have a slow leak. Fix it before it becomes a fast leak.

2. Check controls. Cables are quite strong and rarely break, but look for kinking or stiffness or anything unusual in their operation.

3. Check lights,
including brake light, headlights, and turn signals to make sure everything works. Also check your horn and adjust the mirrors.

4. Check the oil and fuel and, if the bike is liquid-cooled, the coolant levels.

5. If your motorcycle has chain-drive to the rear wheel, make sure that the chain is properly tensioned and in good shape. Chains do need an occasional cleaning and dose of lubrication.

6. Make sure the side stand and center stand fold up properly, and stay up. If one of the retraction springs is weak, or broken or missing, replace it.

7. As you roll off, check your brakes.
Just to make sure they haven’t gone away.

Happy riding!